Materials:- Outer Fabric: 2 - 13 x 16"
- Lining Fabric (I used PUL): 2 - 13 x 16"
- Hand Strap: 1 - 4 x 13"
- Zipper covers: 1 - 2 x 4"
- One 12" zipper
- Coordinating thread
**Click any picture to see larger**Zipper Covers (Same for Hand Strap):-Iron fabric in half lengthwise
- Iron cut edges into center
- Press closed (final width = 1/2") (Hand strap final width - 1")
- Stitch close to open edge (1/8" or less)
Layering materials:- Place PUL shiny side up, place zipper face up
- Place zipper cover 1/2" from side edge, covering metal zipper stop.
***(in the future, I will place this just a smidge further in than 1/2" - say another 1/16th of an inch in. See final note as to why.)
- Open zipper a few inches; place second zipper cover.
- Place outer fabric face down matching top and side edges.
- Pin
- Be sure you have your zipper foot on your machine
- Use the edge of your zipper foot as a guide; it should be flush with the side of your zipper. Don't stitch too closely to the zipper or it will catch the fabric when you open and close it - your stitches should be about 1/8-1/4" from the edge of zipper.
- Since you can't see the zipper, you can use your fingertips/nails to "feel" where it is and keep yourself in place as you sew. Just don't sew your fingertips. You can also find a "mark" either on the foot or the plate below and use that and your cut edge as a guide.
- As you approach the zipper head, you need to open the zipper past where you've already stitched to keep your stitches even. Using your hand wheel, sink your needle into your fabric to hold it in place.
- Raise the foot and you will be able to pull the zipper head back past what you've already stitched. Be sure to go all the way past the foot. Straighten your fabric, lower your foot and sew the rest of the seam.
- Finished first seam
- Pic to show what zipper cover looks like with outer fabric pulled back.
- Another pic with both layers pulled back into place
- Place second piece of PUL shiny side up, layering sewn piece on top as shown.
- Pin zipper and zipper covers to PUL matching edges. Open zipper 2-3 inches. Pin second piece of outer fabric face down, again matching edges.
- Sew as before, using edge of zipper foot and/or cut edge as guide. Before you get to the zipper head remember to sink your needle, lift the foot and pull the zipper head behind and past what you've already stitched.
- Fold top layer of outer fabric over so that zipper shows. You will want to iron this seam open to create a flat surface for top stitching. Repeat on other side
(do not iron with PUL layers under your outer fabric - it will melt.)
- Again, placing the edge of your zipper foot against the zipper, Topstitch on the right side of your outer fabric, approximately 1/8th inch from seam. (You are only stitching through outer fabric and zipper - PUL is pulled to the opposite side at this point.)
**No seam is ever perfectly straight, so go slowly. I try to find a mark on the foot or machine that lines up with the seam and focus on those staying lined up to keep myself fairly straight. If you try to just use the foot against the zipper as a guide your line will be straight, but it probably won't
look straight.
- lol, even with all of that, you can see my lines still aren't that straight. In the end, no one will notice.
- Trim both ends of both zipper covers close to the stitching. This will make your bag less bulky near the zipper and make stitching the next part much easier.
-IMPORTANT: Open zipper 3-4 inches (but not all the way)! It makes pinning your edges near the zipper easier, and ensures you put your hand strap on the correct side.
- Match right sides of outer fabric and pin. Repeat with PUL.
-When you pin the bottom edge of the outer fabric only pin in 3-ish inches from each side leaving a 6 inch opening in the center. Mark each edge of this opening with two pins to remind yourself not to sew between. You need this opening to turn your work.
- This is the hand strap you made at the beginning (along with the zipper covers.) You can see that it is also top stitched near the edge.
- Fold strap in half; this is where it will be placed, between the two outer layers.
- Here you can just see the outline of the strap between my fingers. When you tuck it between the layers, slip it up through the zipper opening. I like mine at an angle so I can hang it from a doorknob, but you could just put it in perpendicular to the edge.
- Switch to your regular foot (seen below). Begin stitching with 1/2" seam allowance on bottom of outer fabric where you double pinned. Turn at the corner, continuing the 1/2" seam allowance.
-As you approach the zipper, go slowly. You may have to press
gently to get the thick layers to go under the foot.
- It can also help to reach through and guide your fabric from the back - you can pull
gently to help guide the thicker fabric under your foot.
- Stop stitching just before you reach your seam (I stitched 2-3 stitches too far here, and paid for it later when it was time to turn the work). Back stitch to reinforce, and remove, cutting thread.
- Place back under foot, this time stitching with a 5/8" seam allowance around all three edges of PUL. Doing this will make your lining just a smidge smaller than your outer and help reduce bunching on your finished product. Don't start your stitches at the seam line, but 1/8-1/4" below. This will make your corner nicer when you turn the fabric at the end.
- Again, go slowly as you approach the zipper, using front hand to push a little, back hand to pull a little, but
gently. Stop your stitches 2-3 stitch lengths from seam and backstitch to reinforce.
- Remove and trim threads. Place back under foot, switching back to 1/2" seam allowance on Outer fabric. Stitch down to corner, turn, and stitch across bottom until you reach your double pin mark at the opening.
- 6" ruler to show opening in bottom of outer fabric.
- Iron up bottom edge of outer fabric (my hand is here to show the opening). Turn over and iron up other side. Once turned, this places your raw edges inside and allows you to topstich the opening closed.
- Trim your edges close to stitching. Trim corners on an angle (this leaves your corners very neat once turned). You have to unfold what you've ironed up to trim the corner of the outer fabric.
- Reach into opening and grab hold of the zipper.
- Pull zipper through opening in bottom.
- Pic of project fully turned. Use a pointy object (chopsticks or very dull pencils work well here) to fully turn your corners, going in through the opening in your stitching. Be careful not to use too much pressure or you could punch through your stitching. Be patient with the corners by the zipper.
- Pull your lining out through the zipper; you need to iron your seams flat on the outer fabric so that you can top stitch.
- Top stitch 1/8" from edge all the way around.
- Not a great pic, but you should be able to see the zipper on the left hand side - you can't because you need to iron it flat. Do this on a low heat, and preferably with a dish towel on the inside between the PUL layers. Too much heat will melt the PUL.
- Now that it's been ironed, you can see the dark line of the zipper :)
- With NB fitted dipe for size comparison.
-Shot of opening.
***Remember this picture?***
The reason I suggest placing the zipper cover in a smidge further than 1/2" - Your edge seam on your outer fabric will be at 1/2". If you don't push this in just a tad, you will catch it in your stitches as you sew up your sides. Then when you go to turn your project, this corner will not want to fully turn. And you will get frustrated. And you will have to take out your seam ripper. And if you are like me, you will have already trimmed your edges in preparation for turning the project and you won't have a whole lot of wiggle room for putting a few stitches back in.
So be kind to yourself and push that cover in a tad :)
aka
